3 Michelin Star dining in Hamburg. Kevin Fehling. The Table.
Hamburg, Germany. A fascinating City with a rich history and old money. Its new landmark is the Elbphilharmonie, a building like from outer space hosting one of the most modern concert halls in Europe.
It is in the same part of the City – Speicherstadt (Warehouse City) – where a shooting star chef has his culinary temple: Kevin Fehling, The Table. It is a highly acclaimed Three Star Michelin restaurant, one of just a few in the whole of Germany.
As the name suggests, there is only one, long, curvy shaped table in the restaurant. It holds 20 diners. The kitchen is open plan, my first chance to observe a super chef firsthand at work. The starting time is for one half of the table at 7 pm sharp (and the Germans mean that!), for the other half at 7:30. This is due to kitchen and service logistics as I found out.
In September I phoned the restaurant to make a reservation and said I want to book 2 seats, probably in November. The Lady politely explained to me that the next available slot would be end of May the following year. 9 months booking notice in advance for a restaurant, a new personal record for me. But beggars are no choosers.
The greets from the kitchen are already eyecatchers.
I specifically liked a very delicate soft cream in a natural egg shell that was laser cut.
Tuna Belly (“Toro”) is one of my favorites. Served on a marble plate with the restaurant’s logo.
What struck me was that hardly any word was spoken among the staff. Everything seemed so perfectly choreographed that no verbal communication was necessary. Fascinating.
The Foie Gras under a caramelized “table top” mirrored the shape of “The Table”.
A perfect piece of beef, the flavors of which just melting on the tongue.
A delicious combo of sweets disguised as vegetables. Sometimes You want to just get carried away.
The encore of an unforgettable evening. And the wine pairing was “all You can drink” – that I have never ever experienced in a place at that culinary level.
All in all a memorable culinary experience in a City absolutely worth visiting.